That of course, led me down the rabbit hole of finding jewelry that had a similar color palette of dark and light with a stark sense of contrast. The engagement trend that no one is talking about, but frankly everyone should be talking about is rutilated quartz. 

Rutilated quartz contains needle-like inclusions that can look black, golden, or copper-like. While often in the gem world, inclusions mean that the price of the stone plummets…with this stone the inverse is true. The more beautiful the inclusions, the higher the stone can sell for. With a score of 7 on the Mohs Hardness Scale, it’s hard enough for daily wear, and also the stone is super unique.

I want to talk about price versus value with this stone as well. The naysayers can say, “oh, he got you a quartz ring? I guess he was too cheap for a diamond.” And let me give an emphatic no to the haters. While rutilated quartz itself may be considered a bargain stone, expert craftsmanship from a luxury jeweler is nothing to sniff at. Also speaking of haters, rutilated quartz is known for having properties of blocking negative energy, so really you’re killing two birds with one stone. So do you want a typical boring diamond so your ring can look “expensive” and your insipid relatives can approve of it or do you want the kind of stone that would make your little emo heart flutter? It’s a no brainer. 

These are my favorite picks for rutilated quartz rings that are oozing with alternative engagement ring goodness.

Bea Halo Ring with Black Rutilated Quartz – Anna Sheffield, $3800

I am obsessed with this ring. There, I said it. This ring reminds me deeply of my teenage self: Tim Burton-esque with a penchant for alternative rock and garage punk bands. And just because this ring reminds me of my emo screamo days doesn’t mean that it’s not refined, elegant, and fit for a modern-day bride. I mean who wouldn’t want to wear a Jackson Pollock painting on their finger? And I love the halo of white diamonds, it gives the ring just enough glamour without crossing the line into gaudy and high profile. This is a “say yes” ring for sure and any woman with a taste for unique and artistic jewelry would swoon over this ring. 

Florence Rutilated Quartz Ring – PeneliBelle, $1443

I have one word for this treat of a ring. Steampunk. How can you go wrong with gorgeous geometric shapes and a bit of mystery? I absolutely love the labyrinth of inclusions in the stone. The black rhodium plating makes it edgy and adds to the one of a kind antique factor. This ring makes me think of 1920’s flappers wearing fringe dresses with feather headdresses. It looks like it was yanked right out of the art deco era and given a home in modernity. Wearing a ring like this toes the line between the sophisticated styles of the past and the current pulse of the jewelry industry. The “Florence” ring tips its hat to the rings that came before it and boldly sets the stage for new rings to come. 

Petite Crossover Ring – Natalie Marie, $1876

When the abstract becomes tangible that’s when you know your design has achieved complete symbiosis. I love that the little scribbles and darting lines in the quartz are mirrored with the design of the band. I like the delicacy of the four claw setting and how the yellow gold makes a bold statement. This ring is decadent, delicate, and damn beautiful. Also to take this in another direction, the circular interwoven band reminds me of Jupiter’s rings. This ring is giving me strong outer space vibes but not in a Star Trek way. In a this-stone-looks-like-it-has-a-whole-universe-in-it kind of way. This ring is Alice in Wonderland wacky with the added bonus of being wallet-friendly. What’s not to love?

Let me know in the comments below, have I made you a believer? Could you commit to a rutilated quartz engagement ring or are you a die-hard diamond fan?

The post Quintessential Quartz Engagement Rings appeared first on handfulofmia.

Classically trained at the University of the Arts London, she loves jewelry and considers herself to be a “jewelry head.” Kassandra got started in jewelry by exploring the market scene (her favorites were Spitalfields and Camden Market) and eventually transitioned into precious metals. Her love for jewelry does not center solely around beads and materials, she also empathizes with the Black jewelry community and their unique plight. As of June, she launched a hardship fund for Black jewelers in the UK that has raised over $24,000. The money is intended to be distributed to 10 Black jewelers in the form of grants. If you would like to donate, you can do so here. I hope you enjoy this interview as much as I did!

AT: Do you have a favorite quote by a Black leader or celebrity?

KG: “In a racist society, it is not enough to be non-racist, we must be anti-racist.” That’s Angela Davis. I feel that in my bones and that’s everything that I’ve done. I don’t just moan. I want to be proactive. With CO-VID 19, they acted quickly for an unknown entity or disease. They made sacrifices for this unknown disease. We should act the same here. That’s where I’m at.

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Fun facts about Emilie include her near-obsession with aquamarine because of it’s raw and elemental energy. Being largely inspired by water, aquamarine truly resonates with her because it evokes the textures, hues, and feelings of the sea. 

In the media lately, white allyship has been a touchy subject. Many people believe that conversations and initiatives surrounding race should be led solely by BIPOC. It’s my personal opinion that white supremacist thinking isn’t a Black issue that needs to be sympathized with, but a white issue that needs to be both internally and externally addressed. 

Apparently, Emilie and I were on the same wavelength because she took it upon herself to launch a mentorship program for Black jewelry students last month. Her Jewelers Mentorship Program was created after deeply contemplating her privilege and making note of the lack of inclusivity and diversity at trade shows. She pledged to establish a relationship with a new mentee every 6 months and to continue the program throughout her career. It is actions like these that we need to see allies taking to show true support for the continued challenges that Black people face in America. 

We talked about everything from motivational speakers to the pandemic, I hope you enjoy this interview as much as I did!

AT: You were able to help donate nearly 50 masks to frontline emergency workers at NYU Langone Hospital in NYC. In what ways has the pandemic changed your daily perspective? 

ES: I was really excited to be able to donate masks to NYU Langone hospital workers here in NYC. It’s something we wear every day in my studio, and never in a million years would I have thought how coveted they would be. The pandemic has taught me a lot of things, but mostly to slow down, to not take advantage of the small moments and how lucky I am to have my family, health, food on my table and a roof over my head.

AT: Many people may not know that as well as being a mom and business owner, you are also an author. What was your process for writing How To Create Your Own Jewelry Line and how was that project different from your second book Creative Wax Carving? 

ES: The process of writing both of my books was really difficult at the beginning. Taking lessons I had taught to students in person for years and trying to translate it to paper. How to Create Your Own Jewelry Line began to pour out of me once I got started, trying to break down all of the things I’ve learned over the years, lessons I’ve learned from mistakes, and things I wish I would have known when I got started. Creative Wax Carving was a whole other challenge because I had to figure out how to explain a physical, tangible skill with words. Breaking down the lessons in the book was really fun. I am really proud of those books and to be able to share lessons with people around the globe that feel accessible.

Photo Credit: Emilie Shapiro Jewelry

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Having a budget doesn’t mean your future fiancée has to look busted. The average cost of an engagement ring in 2018 was just over $7800. I am going to show you freakishly beautiful engagement rings for less than half of that budget. And what’s greater still, is that most of these rings feature non-diamond center stones, for all my #alternativebrides looking to stand out and show out.

Vampire Squid Ring – Eily O’Connell, $3079

This ring is unusual and I mean that in the best way possible. I love the luster of the 14 carat rose gold and how freeform and natural the design is. Eily cast the shape of this ring using crab claws found along the Irish coast to add texture and visual interest to the band. One of my favorite things about this ring other than the huge dazzling citrine is the fact that vampire squids are real creatures! Perhaps the pretty color of the rose gold is modeled after the red color of wild vampire squids, which makes the ring that much cooler! Your bride is guaranteed to be asked about this one-of-a-kind sparkler all the way from Ireland! 

Fault Line Diamond Ring – Jennifer Dawes, $3075

Ever since I wrote my article on brown diamonds, I have been liking colored diamonds more and more. This ring is bohemian, imperfect, and cast in rich 18k yellow gold. The salt and pepper diamond is full of dark inclusions that make it that much more unique and gorgeous to me. I love that the 1 carat center stone is emerald cut because it adds a geometric flair that contrasts with how organic the milgrain detail looks. One thing is for sure, no one else will have a ring that’s identical to the one you purchase. Cheers to not looking the same!

Giselle White Sapphire Ring – Emily Gil, $2500

I love that this piece isn’t your average cookie-cutter solitaire. I have seen scalloped edges before, but I’ve never seen them included quite like this. The hunter green pairs expertly with the 1.22 carat white sapphire center stone creating a lush sense of contrast. With a 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, sapphires are a durable stone that can last a lifetime. 

This ring is all about the small details from the small round white diamonds as accent stones to the milgrain border for the pear cut sapphire. This would be an ideal ring for a detail-oriented woman who loves sapphires and a sense of originality. 

Let me know in the comments below, which one was your favorite? Are citrines the new diamonds or do white sapphires steal the spotlight? 

The post Blissfully Blinged Out Engagement Rings Under $3100 appeared first on handfulofmia.

She believes that people need to stop saying “All Lives Matter,” and re-focus on the current trend of racialized violence that specifically affects people of color. She has been using her Instagram to advocate for social change. She has shared relevant links on her profile such as “20 Social Justice Books For Young Adults And Middle Grades,” and “75 Things White People Can Do For Racial Justice.” She personally donated a pair of diamond earrings to the Still We Rise Auction No. 9, which is raising funds to benefit the Equal Justice Initiative, M4BL (Movement For Black Lives), and other worthy causes. 

If you would like to help support Still We Rise, you can bid on the auction items up until June 29th at 7pm PST or make a Venmo donation here. Read all about her sources of inspiration, her allegiance to the #BlackLivesMatter Movement, and why she prefers Sausalito to Oakland. I hope you enjoy this interview as much as I did! 

AT: You’ve described the Big Sur as your happy place. How much does immersion into nature factor into your happiness?

SS: Very much so! There’s nothing else that simultaneously calms me down and lights me up like being in the wilderness. Nature offers us a chance to forget about ourselves a bit and connect with the earth and I always welcome that escape.

AT: In your shop, you have a wall of antique mirrors. How did you come to collect so many mirrors from different time periods and is it safe to assume that you are inspired by antiquity? 

SS: I’ve always had a thing for antiques and thrifting and have been collecting special objects since I was a teenager. The mirrors are no exception. I’ve gathered them over time, mostly from estate sales, yard sales, thrift shops, and antique malls. And yes, I’m absolutely inspired by antiquity. It’s so powerful knowing that the objects in your life have a history. Much like the people we choose to surround ourselves with, objects can also become part of our story.

Image Credit: Sarah Swell and Still We Rise

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In the diamond industry, these perceived blemishes are inclusions. 

For example, graphite clusters and inclusions can make a diamond appear black. And nitrogen will cause a yellow tint. Take that nitrogen and apply some heat and you have a brown diamond.

In “For Appearance’ Sake: The Historical Encyclopedia of Good Looks, Beauty, and Grooming,” Victoria Sherrow concluded that a preference for a pale appearance has correlated with class-consciousness. In other words, pale skin coincided with privilege. Darker skin, unfortunately, went hand in hand with manual labor and overexertion.

In “The Truth About Chocolate Diamonds,” Dodai Stewart asserted that “up until very recently, brown diamonds were not something anyone was interested in. Unless you just needed something hard and sharp, because you were running a factory.”

Is it a coincidence that brown diamonds have lower prices? Or that these so-called ugly diamonds were repurposed to do the dirty work? They became steel bits to drill through metal and part of saw blades to saw through wood. To put it plainly, their dark color went hand in hand with…manual labor.

The historically prized complexions of nearly translucent white women syncs up with the color grading of diamonds. Both systems follow eerily similar guidelines. The aesthetic of whiteness being interchangeable with value applies across all aspects of life. This is because white culture is the dominant culture.

The Diamond Colour Grading Scale was invented by the GIA or Gemological Institute of America in the 1950s. With the correct lighting, you view a diamond under great magnification. The diamond’s color is compared to a set of master stones. Depending on the color of the diamond, you can verify what letter grade it is and how much it is worth.

In the western world, jewelry has always been colonial. It’s kind of like a gun. It’s the white gaze that tells us what matters and what to pay attention to. In “Everything You Need To Know About Chocolate Diamonds,” Benjamin Khordipour gives us the facts. “Brown diamonds have always existed. They just haven’t been judged as worthy of inclusion on jewelry.” Moreover, in “Bravo for Brown Diamonds” the GIA referred to brown diamonds as the “ugly ducklings of the colored diamond world.”

It is worth noting there are no black or brown diamonds in the GIA master stone set. Every diamond that’s present is white and old, like members of a tiny corporate boardroom. The darkest diamond has faint hues of yellow, like blonde hair or straw.

In line with Jim Crow laws, brown diamonds are “separate but equal” and face segregation. And like the actual legal doctrine, “separate but equal” is not equal. Brown diamonds are worth significantly less.

Initially, because they were so undesirable a separate grading scale had to be created for them. This was known as the Argyle Grading Method. Today, brown diamonds are graded by the GIA against brown master stones.

With hip jewelers including brown diamonds in their designs, there is a rise in popularity. But the stigma of being brown is hard to erase. As Khordipour points out, “Because even the best chocolate diamonds are still brown diamonds, there is still a degree of snobbery present which sees them as the poor relations of colored diamonds.”

The general excuse that’s given is that brown diamonds are just so common, that they’re not worth much. Also, that they generally are of poor quality and thus are destined for industrial use. By poor quality, what’s being highlighted is that brown diamonds are full of inclusions. (It’s the inclusion of nitrogen that makes them brown.)

The same way that FOX News will highlight the worst examples of Black people and try to pass that off as the norm, the diamond industry has stereotyped brown diamonds as low-quality brown rocks.

That’s all fine and dandy, but brown diamonds often have the Three C’s: cut, clarity, and carat weight. And if they possess the holy trinity of diamond quality then why are they still of a lower rank? If we remove the excuses, the only difference at that point would be color. A brown diamond will cost far less than a colorless diamond with identical quality, clarity, and carat weight. I’ll repeat that, identical quality. And I think that says something about America. I think that says something about the world.

Brown diamonds have the same rating as a white diamond on the Mohs Hardness Scale. They are found deep under the Earth the same way white diamonds are found. They come in so many beautiful shades like chocolate, cognac, and champagne. And yet, they’re cheap. And yet, they’re called ugly. And yet they’re seen as fit for manual and menial labor.

The “aha!” moment for me, was when I realized that the reason that brown diamonds are worth less is bias. Being a Black person is no different than being a brown diamond. People look at you and assume you should be working hard in a factory somewhere. People view you as impure and less beautiful.

How is deciding that brown diamonds are worth 50% less than white diamonds any different than the Three-Fifths Compromise, where we used to count Black Americans as ⅗ of a person?

Historically white diamonds are worth more because they’re seen as purer. Why is white expensive and ecclesial and pure? Why is white right? Why is white the most beautiful color? What are we subjugating or devaluing by upholding that standard?

When we say that brown is not valuable or beautiful or worthy of display, is that truth or habit? We have to stop assuming old mentalities are timeless.

I am a brown diamond. I have been persecuted, stigmatized, and given a low appraisal. I have been fetishized and referred to as various liquors and desserts. But I don’t let subjective opinions affect my objective worth. I am a rarity.

The truth is that brown diamonds are as breathtaking as they are diverse. And like Black people, we have to stop pigeon-holing them and recognize their equality and beauty.

Image Credit: Marigold Events, Joe Escobar Diamonds

The post Why Are Brown Diamonds Worth Less Than White Diamonds? appeared first on handfulofmia.

Variance has been using their Instagram Stories for activism and I commend them for it. They reposted a photo of the Santa Cruz police chief kneeling alongside peaceful protesters, an image that has since gone viral. They also posted an image of the Louisville Community Bail Fund, an organization created by #BLMLouisville to help those in jail because of bail, after making a personal donation. Variance also posted an image of their donation receipt for the Grassroots Law Project, an organization whose mission statement involves defunding the police and demilitarizing both schools and neighborhoods.

These are the kinds of actions we need to see small businesses taking as allies in the movement against systemic racism. I stand with Nicole Rimedio and Scott Zankman of Variance in affirming that #BlackLivesMatter. I hope that you enjoy this interview as much as I did! If you would like to contribute to the Louisville Community Bail Fund or the Grassroots Law Project, you can do so here or here.

AT: Do you have pets and if so, how would they describe you in 10 words or less? 

NR: We have a Maine coon cat named Roosevelt. He sees us as the source of all things good. But that can definitely be a burden as he yells at us when it rains as if somehow it’s our fault.

Image Credit: Scott Zankman, Variance.

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Here are my top 3 earrings for staying on trend and looking stylish for summer!

Butterfly Garden Brass Earrings – We Dream In Colour, $270

These are not your mother’s hoop earrings. Gone are the days of delicate little silver circles being the epitome of bold earware. And bamboo hoops, despite numerous attempts to resuscitate them, are dead as well. The brass hoop however, is alive and well, and this is a trend I love. The great thing about these earrings is that you can play up an outfit with a floral pattern or bring some playfulness to a monochromatic outfit. As I mentioned in a former article, brass earrings are most ideal when they incorporate sterling silver or surgical steel where your ear might touch. The Butterfly Garden Brass Earrings are no exception, and have sterling silver posts. These earrings get an A+ for not having to choose between beauty and practicality. Also save 30% by ordering them from this link!

Salento Black Earrings – Bibi Marini, $270

These moody, witchy earrings put me in the mind of lunar eclipses and starry nights. I could see myself wearing these and roaming a beautiful gothic cathedral. The Salento Black Earrings contain sterling silver posts, 24k gold plated brass and interestingly enough, silk thread. I love the way the black crystals sparkle, it really adds a level of animation and sophistication to earrings that could otherwise be entirely metallic. These are true day-to-night earrings, in that, you could play them up for a casual brunch or wear them to a nightclub. These earrings are true headturners and will make a darkly romantic impression for summer.

Kinetic Petal Doré Earrings – Anissa Kermiche, $305

Is it odd that these earrings make me think of genealogy? The Kinetic Petal Doré Earrings remind me of a family tree, if you happened to come from a long line of carelessly perfect looking flower petals. They look vaguely molecular and also put me in the mind of chemical compounds. If I could use just one word to describe these earrings it would be futuristic. These earrings are on a whole other level. I love the way the 18k gold plated brass petals hang like a mobile above a baby’s crib. These fresh and contemporary looking earrings will definitely make you catch someone’s eye. 

Which of these three pairs of earrings would you get to liven up your wardrobe? Are you feeling the florals or eyeing the moody hoops? Let me know in the comments below!

Image Credit: Anissa Kermiche, Moda Operandi, Bibi Marini

The post Bold Brass Statement Earrings Under $305 appeared first on handfulofmia.

Karole is the co-founder of Oropopo, a jewelry and home design business that she runs with her husband, Grady. I sincerely love the jewelry that Karole designs. The way Karole interprets natural wonders and reimagines them reminds me of how a prism redistributes light. She has a way of making the eye dance. 

Karole was born near Oropopo, Venezuela, in a refinery town along Venezuelan’s Caribbean coast. As a teenager, she moved to Sao Paulo, Brazil and her designs that now feature the Southwest landscape are an abstraction of the Brazilian modern jewelry modeled using the natural riches of the Amazon.

I hope you enjoy this interview as much as I did, we talked about everything from coping with CO-VID 19 to architecture and mythology.

Amiah Taylor: What fascinates you about buildings, and how does that translate into jewelry?

Karole Mazeika: I don’t think architectural design translates into jewelry, exactly. You could say design principles are the same at any scale but that isn’t true. The priorities are different, the purpose is different, and the practical concerns are different. 

That said, humans tend to adorn themselves along their outside just like buildings. I use contemporary architectural skin patterns in my jewelry, from expanded metal in the VLA (Very Large Antenna Array) to perforated screens in the Tierra series. Another way architecture impacts the body is in its choreography through built environments. I don’t design pieces that stand off the body but that interact with it.

AT: What’s your opinion on “push presents,” the 21st-century trend where men are giving women a piece of jewelry in exchange for giving birth? And if you approve, which jewelry piece in your shop do you think would make a great push present? 

KM: I love that each partnership has a ritual. Love and life should always be celebrated. I think our most expensive piece is the perfect push present!!! Just kidding! Ask for what makes you happy and helps you remember the joy of giving birth because pushing out a baby is no joke.

AT: Michael Kors is quoted as saying “I’ve always thought of accessories as the exclamation point of a woman’s outfit.” What’s your philosophy on accessories?

KM: I have described my approach towards designing accessories, but I don’t know if I have one on wearing them. I’ve heard clients mention that our pieces are conversation starters. People stop them. They’re just so perplexed on never seeing metal do that or wood do that and then can’t get over the fact that it is actually leather. I’ve heard this especially from clients who never wore statement jewelry before ours. Most clients do reserve on wearing Oropopo for days that they want to interact with others. It’s the literal “pick me up.”

AT: Your jewelry draws from the mythologies and iconography of the American West. Do you have a favorite myth that you love?

KM: You can argue whether it can be considered Western mythology, but we have always been awed by the VLA (Very Large Array) antenna out on the San Agustin plain. There isn’t a better design allegory for the high desert than those silent giants poised in the middle of nowhere listening into deep space for traces of information. The array is like the mesas or the plants waiting for what little rain they might get. They are man-made, designed for a specific purpose, but they look like they belong there. The whole tradition of design in the Southwest is like that, full of uncanny hybrids and cross-cultural knots that when you study them you find metaphors for so much more than just made objects. That’s what inspires us the most.

Image Credit: Oropopo

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These Alaia heels have everything that you would want in a shoe. They’re a beautiful color and they’re minimal while still having a bit of personality. These sandals can be dressed up or down and I have the earring pairings that will help you do either!

Here are my top picks for beautiful earring pairings to compliment these cute Alaia suede sandals.

Stick Agate Drop Earrings – Betsey Bensen, $247

What I like about these earrings is the ability to take your outfit in an entirely different direction. The seller describes the color scheme as a “milky mix of lavender and white with a few touches of rust.” The rust color, in my opinion, is very complementary to the dusty pink in the suede sandals. The elongated shape of the earrings seems classy and demure. I also like that these earrings are bordered in sterling silver because that ties in with the metallic studs on the sandals. I would wear these earrings with a lavender miniskirt and a white peasant blouse for an airy bohemian vibe.

Enchanted Hoop Earrings – Lele Sadoughi, $198

Every girl remembers the iconic line from Mean Girls: “On Wednesdays, we wear pink!” If those words were somehow made into a pair of earrings, these would be the earrings. I’ve been daydreaming about these hoops for a while now, so of course I wanted to share them! The hand swirled acetate  reminds me of marble because of how creamy and streaky it is. I love how the earrings almost seem ombre or transitional, the way they go from pink to off-white. Pairing these earrings with the studded Alaia sandals, you could transform the whole concept of your outfit from muted to bright and playful. I would pair these earrings with a pastel pink dress and matte silver nail polish, for a super feminine and cheeky look.

Coral and Blue Lagoon Crystal Earrings – Les Néréides Paris, $198

Blue isn’t the obvious choice for a pair of dusty pink Alaia sandals. But taking a look at these earrings and the bright and sultry pops of orange, aren’t they kind of adorable? These earrings make a statement in more than one way. With the silver studs on the sandals and the yellow gold plating on the earrings, this is a fun and bold way to mix metals. I also love the small floral details at the base of the earrings which have the tiniest little mauve flower buds. The knotted leather strap on the Alaia sandals are vaguely nautical to me and I feel like these earrings with the clear burst of coral and blue bring that theme full circle. I would wear these earrings with a breezy sundress and a pair of cute sunglasses.

Which pair was your favorite pairing with the Alaia sandals? Let me know your thoughts in the comments below!

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